A Scottish road trip
*Originally published on suitcasemag.com
The basis to every good road trip is a really good playlist. What we didn’t want to hear, as we embarked on Scotland’s North Coast 500 route, was a rain backing track. We probably should have been more prepared for the bad weather, given that the route – created in 2014 as part of Prince Charles’ North Highland Initiative to boost tourism – takes in the most northern parts of the Scottish coastline. We soon learnt that even the rain couldn’t dampen the beauty of secluded coves we found hiding between dramatic cliffs, the abandoned remains of castles and villages, or the blanket of purple heather that covers the highlands and is best seen in early autumn.
The scenic drive is one 500-mile loop, which starts and ends in Inverness and can be completed in either direction. We chose to travel clockwise, against the norm, in the hopes of finding quieter roads where we could really sit back and enjoy the drive. It began by winding west to Applecross and up to Durness, then straight across the northern coastline to John O’Groats, before looping back down to Inverness.
The first part of the journey was the most perilous because of the Bealach na Bà (Gaelic for the ‘Pass of the Cattle’), which leads from Inverness to our stop for the first night, Applecross. The ‘Pass of the Cattle’ twists through the mountains and has the greatest ascent of any UK road, rising to 2,054ft above sea level. Despite the constant dodging of oncoming traffic and the occasional deer, the road is thrilling to drive, but perhaps not suitable for vertigo sufferers.
In Applecross, a peninsula that looks out over the Inner South strait towards the island of Raasay, you’ll find little more than a restaurant and pub to entertain. But the popular Applecross Inn is always busy and serves delicious fresh seafood dishes. The next morning, despite the pouring rain, we decided to do the short, 2km walk out to Coille Ghillie – a beautiful secluded township with a white coral beach that’s only accessible by foot or boat. The weather ceased long enough to enjoy the tiny, and completely empty, cove, which had the kind of clear waters you’d expect to find in the Mediterranean.
Our next stop was the town of Ullapool, a 112-mile drive north. It’s the largest town for miles around, despite having just roughly 1,500 inhabitants, and we were looking forward to our pick of restaurants. We went for the Arch Inn, which sits overlooking the port (from where you can take a ferry to the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides), and it was here that we enjoyed my favourite meal of the whole trip – fresh salmon, with red-pesto mash and plenty of veg.
That night’s campsite was set on its own peninsula, just north of Ullapool at Ardmair Point, with the Atlantic lapping at three sides and views of the surrounding highland ridges. The next morning we decided to take advantage of the many walking routes in the area and set off for the Ullapool hill trail, which takes in miles of heather until you reach the stone summit, where you’re greeted with panoramic views of Ullapool, Ardmair and Loch Broom.
Half way into the road trip, the sun finally came out. The drive from Ullapool to Durness included, without a doubt, my favourite stretch of road – there were sweeping bends and stomach-turning drops, but best of all, there wasn’t another car in sight and I was finally able to put my foot down. Along the route you’ll find the ruins of Ardvreck Castle from the 15th century, which at one time must have been incredibly dramatic where it stands overlooking Loch Assynt. There’s also the chance to make a quick detour towards Lochinver to try the world-famous pies at Lochinver Larder.
Day four was the longest leg of the journey, straight across the northern coastline to John O’Groats. The northern coastline has plenty of natural wonders that will pull your attention from the road, including Balnakeil Bay (where we braved a dip), Smoo Cave, which offers boat trips deep into its chambers, and Kyle of Tongue – with the kinds of white sands and clear, shallow bays you want to stroll through.
After posing for a quick obligatory photo at John O’Groats, and a brief overnight stay in Wick, 17 miles south, we set off on the final drive, past Dunrobin Castle – a stately house dating from the 1300s, with a lush Victorian-inspired garden – and the ghostly ruins of Badbea village, a cliff top settlement built by families evicted from their land during the 18th and 19th century Highlands Clearances.
A road trip brings to mind endless freedom, wide-open roads and picturesque views as far as the eye can see. And this one didn’t disappoint – just mind the weather.
